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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.